Skirt designs drawings

Skirt designs drawings DEFAULT

How to Design Clothes (Without Drawing)

This post outlines methods to communicate a design vision, without drawing.

Reference photos

The first tool is reference photos. With Google, it's so easy to search for design ideas.

Let's say I wanted to design a sequin maxi skirt with a flounce. I'm picturing a sext floor-length skirt with a slit and a cascading flounce. Now, I need to find images to visually describe this idea.

• • •

First, I search in google images "sequin maxi skirt with slit”

sequin maxi skirt.jpg

I look through the photos and decide that this style is closest to what I had in mind.

sequin fabric skirt.jpg

This photo is now my starting point, but now I need to find other supporting images to communicate my idea further.

I google image "maxi skirt with flounce" to try and find the perfect ruffle placement and size. I like the look of the flounce at the hem, but the top flounce is a bit too busy for me. I crop the photo to show just the ruffle I want.

I can even draw on top of the image in Google Slides (it’s a free app) to express my design vision.

ruffle skirt.jpg
flounce at slit.jpg

These two images now express what I'm generally going for.
(note: for consistency, I reflected the sequin skirt so the slit was on the same side in each photo.)

side by side.jpg

Lastly, I want to communicate the fabric. I'm not sure if I want small sequins or gigantic sequins like paillettes, but I know I want the color to be champagne. I google image "champagne sequin fabric" and "champagne sequin paillette fabric.” I decide that large paillettes might not drape well on the ruffle cascade, so I go with small sequin fabric.

Screen Shot 2020-02-25 at 12.50.58 PM.png
champagne paillette fabric.jpg

This is the final result of my photo collage.
Tip: Label each reference photo and explain it’s purpose

final design.jpg

• • •

You can also curate images of trim, fabric, color, silhouette, and other images to support your design idea. 

You can create photo collages in Photoshop, InDesign, Powerpoint, or in a free program like Google Slides. 

I prefer to work in Google Slides (it's like Microsoft Powerpoint, but web-based.)

Reference Samples

The next best thing to reference photos is reference samples.

At its core, fashion design is a bunch of measurements. 

For example, these shirts are different because of their unique measurements of the neck width, neck drop, armhole opening, sleeve length, etc. 

Specification on measurements (or "specs" for short) are the foundation of every design. 

In college, we took an entire class on measuring garments using this book—the Spec Manual. This book is fantastic because it shows how to measure every type of garment. Here’s an article on How to Spec a Garment.

spec manual.jpg

This book includes sample "spec sheets" with various "points of measure" (POS for short) in a garment. Here is an example spec page from the book:

dress spec sheet.jpg

You can practice measuring specs on garments in your own, or a friend or family member's closet. 

• • •

Let's say I want to develop a cropped, turtle-neck, cropped tank in a ribbed knit fabrication.

I look in my closet to find anything somewhat similar. 

I find a long sleeve ribbed bodysuit. It's not precisely my design idea, but it's a good starting point because it's:
1) a rib-knit 2) tight to the body3) a turtle-neck.

I place the garment flat on a table, smoothing out the wrinkles. Then I place a ruler to indicate the hem of the cropped tank. I take measurements of the garment, adjusting as necessary (ignoring the sleeves and reduce the across shoulder measurement by 2", adding an inch to the turtle-neck measurement, etc.)

This is the final spec sheet that I created in Google Sheets.

The title of the spec sheet helps to illustrate the design idea. I included “sleeveless” and “tank” to double confirm that the garment doesn’t have sleeves.

To further illustrate the design idea, I erased the sleeves in Photoshop (you could do this in paint.)

Screen Shot 2020-03-06 at 3.33.22 PM.png

• • •


Here's where there is a little bit of a learning curve. If you are new to fashion, you may not know the terms for different types of garments, necklines, silhouettes, etc.

Each garment category has many terms to describe fits and details. 

To be honest, I'm still learning names for things.

I'm like, wait, what's a "Culotte" again?

The cool thing is, it's free and easy to learn different fashion terms. Even when you're online shopping, just look at the product description.

A lot of times, the product descriptions on websites come from the actual designer's description. 

By scrolling through products at online stores, we can learn new words by just paying attention.

Just this one page on Madewell’s website shows three different types of jacket: dispatch jacket, anorak, and chore coat.

product descriptions.jpg

By describing your design idea, other people can visualize it (especially if you're talking to people in the industry.) 

For example: here's a series of descriptive words to express your vision: "a ribbed-knit henley t-shirt that's cropped and has a super dropped armhole."

In this example, I gave clarifying information for fabric, (ribbed-knit) neckline detail (henley), garment category (t-shirt), length (cropped), and other supporting specs (super-dropped armhole.) I called out key elements of the design using descriptors.

Here are more examples of how to define your design: 

  • Product category (t-shirt, jacket, woven top, etc.)

  • Fabric (chiffon, sequin, spandex, etc.)

  • Neckline (scoop, v, crew, boat, surplice, etc.)

  • Type of armhole (dropped, raglan, dolman, set-in, etc.)

  • Kind of sleeve (bishop, kimono, flutter, cap, bracelet, etc.)

  • Length (maxi, midi, mini, cropped, etc.)

  • Silhouette (boxy, body-con, a-line, oversized, etc.)

  • Finishes + details (Cuffs, collars, pockets, etc.)

To learn more, try google imaging things like "neckline types," "sleeve types," etc.  


You don't have to be great at drawing if you have great templates. 

A template, or "croquis," can be a drawing of a fashion model, mannequin, or any figure that you trace over to design clothes. You can use a croquis to draw flat sketches or full-figure illustrations. The idea is that you're using old drawings as the basis for new drawings and saving time and frustration.

Scan 1.jpeg

You can also google images of flat sketches to guide you. Example: "Motorcycle jacket flat sketch" or "Motorcycle jacket vector sketch." By researching other sketches, you can find pointers on how to improve, or at least see an example of what you're trying to achieve.

Screen Shot 2020-02-26 at 11.21.55 AM.png

Templates help to bridge the gap between your imagination as a designer and your skills as an artist.

Even though I can draw, I still use templates. When it comes to saving time, I don't mess around. I created a kit of over 500 croquis templates that I can trace over and over. I even made interchangeable heads, feet, hands, hairstyles, and accessories, so it's easy to change the model's pose. Click here to learn more.

You can also find fashion templates on websites like Etsy. 

Hire a freelancer

Lastly, you can always hire someone to draw your designs. 

There are lots of people with great ideas who hire freelance designers to execute them. 

The beauty with the emerging "gig economy" is that it's easy to hire qualified designers on sites like Upwork or Fiverr for short or long-term projects. 

Screen Shot 2020-02-26 at 11.28.29 AM.jpg

I freelance on Upwork (from time-to-time) and personally enjoy it. 

It's easy to set milestones, stay on top of deadlines, communicate with clients, and exchange money. 

You also can view freelancer's design portfolios and read past client reviews to determine if it's a good fit. 

In addition, you can pay a flat fee for specific tasks and milestones, which controls the budget (just be aware—edits will often be an hourly fee.) 


I know when you think "fashion design," you see an artist sketching away at a drawing table. But this isn't always the case...

When it comes to designing clothes, reference photos, samples, descriptions, templates, and freelancers are fair game.


Have you ever thought, “I want to draw an original costume, but I don’t know where to start…”?

In this article, I’ll show you how to design a costume easily!

[Tips for designing costumes]

There are two main points.
1) Divide into parts
2) Combine various designs.

Let’s start with a step-by-step explanation.

[1] Divide into parts

A costume is a collection of various parts that come together to form a single form.
When thinking about the design, let us first break it down into smaller parts.

For example, if you are designing a dress, you can divide it into the following categories.


The more parts you have, the more informative the costume will be; the fewer parts, the simpler the costume will be.
Divide the parts according to the outfit you want to design and your own design.

[2] Combine from various designs

Once the parts are separated, decide on the shape of each one in turn.
The most important thing to do is to gather materials.
If you have at least three patterns for each part, you can decide on the design while changing the combinations as if you were changing clothes.

Let’s try to design the actual costume based on the parts we have just divided.

First, decide on the silhouette of the costume.
Choose a silhouette that is close to the image you want to express, such as a light shape for an energetic character or a stable shape for a quiet character.

Next, choose the shape of the top.
Various impressions can be expressed depending on the shape and degree of exposure.

・The neck.
There may not be a neck part, depending on the shape of the top.
The design you choose will make a big difference of the clothing’s impression, so try a few and choose the one that you feel is best.
It is also possible to add arrangements such as doubling up, changing the size, or adding ruffles.

Sleeve designs can range from simple to artistic ones.
You can also change the length and size to create an impact.

This is the part of the dress that occupies the largest area.
There are a variety of designs to choose from, so have fun with your choice.
Arrange the length and shape according to the silhouette you have chosen at first, so that the appeal when completed will not be lost.

They say that fashion starts from the feet up, right?
These are the parts that tend to be hidden, but you can choose a design that will make your outfit stand out even more.

Here is the outfit I designed using this method.
The dress was designed with cuteness in mind.


1) Divide into parts
2) Combine from several designs.

This method can be used for costumes other than dresses and for male characters as well.

If you have any doubts about your costume design, please refer to this article.

(Text and pictures by Kana Umezawa)
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  1. The sportsmans shop
  2. Ladder bars silverado
  3. Mario amiibo odyssey

How to draw a frilly dress with a full skirt and puffy sleeves!



Hello everyone~!

My name’s Martina, but on the internet, I’m known as Mortinfamia 🙂


One of the things I’m most fond of when I think about an illustration is how to dress my characters. I have a thing for frilly clothes, full skirts, puffy sleeves, and any kind of volume: they look very dynamic in art and bring your characters to life!



Today we’ll be making a dress with all these elements, and we’ll see how to draw them easily with a few tricks.


I’m a comic artist and a digital illustrator. For this tutorial, I used Clip Studio Paint because it’s the software I enjoy working with the most (it’s actually my main software). Still, obviously you can replicate it and follow it using any drawing software you are used to!

So, let’s begin! But… where to start?


How to Draw a Basic Frill

The first step is to draw a wavy line, not too sharp, with soft edges. This is the most important line: it’s the base for any kind of frill! Then, we need to draw the external part of the fabric’s fold and mark where the seam is. After that, we’re almost done! To make them look prettier and more realistic, we need to sketch a few folds in the flattest parts to mimic real fabric.



This is the basis for every ruche, pleat, or gather, and you can apply the very same steps to frills as well. You might make them smaller to decorate lapels or blouses, or bigger for skirts.
The best part of this element is that it can be part of the dress or be a simple decoration for clothes you think of as too plain. It’s all a matter of the ruches’ or the frills’ size!


 Dress your character

  1.  Drawing a skirt and some frills

Now, the most important thing: how can we apply these rules to create a real outfit?
First, we have to draft our character. This might sound trivial, but it’s actually essential: sketching the pose we want before the dress makes it easier to accurately draw the physics of the fabric and fix what we think is off (proportions, physics of clothing, etc.). If we draw the dress blindly without a model to wear, we might leave too much room for anatomical mistakes, which might be hard to fix later.

Feel free to ink the draft as I did, but it isn’t necessary.



First, let’s sketch the dress on our character to find a silhouette we like! Once we’re done, we can add all the details we have in mind.


For all this planning part, I use my favorite sketching pencil! I use it with a point 4 in stabilization, and with a grade in antialiasing! You can see the settings I use right here :>



Let’s start with a blouse and apply what we just learned—let’s decorate the neckline with some frills (1). I imagined my character with a tight waistline, so I think a corset over her blouse would suit her well, and I’ll add some folds under her chest to make the dress look a bit more realistic (2).


If we want to draw puffy sleeves, here’s a tip! Imagine a wrapped piece of candy. Okay, now picture the paper around the candy still folded, but without the piece of candy inside: we would have two tighter parts and a puffier one! That’s what puffy sleeves should look like 🙂 (3)



Let’s now start with the bottom part of the sleeve! (4) Pay attention to the fabrics’ physics: remember that the wavy line of the sleeve’s folds should go around the arm. You can draw them quite large if you want a soft and voluminous fabric. Let’s apply this same technique to the other sleeve.


Now the corset: we just need to follow the bustline down to the hips and leave the front a little open! (1) After that, we only need to tie the front together and add some seam details. (2) Note: There are a lot of different types of corsets, but this type is the simplest and fastest to draw. You can change the type by shifting the corset’s opening to the back, adding some lace, or making it an underbust corset, which would make it end above the navel! I strongly suggest you browse the internet to take inspiration from some references! Websites like Pinterest offer a lot of them.



To draw the skirt, we can essentially resize the sleeves’ frills and make them bigger! The most useful thing you can do to understand how the big folds should move is to draw a couple of guide arrows—they will show us how the skirt “flaps.” (red line) Now, we just need to draw the folds along them, to make it look natural!

Since I wanted the skirt to be plain and textureless, let’s draw a petticoat (2) under some folds to make the illustration a bit more dynamic and detailed: you can make a simple pattern, but feel free to choose more complex ones if you like! As I already said, taking inspiration from references is always a great idea.



I’m usually very precise while working on an illustration. I always organize all the elements of my drawings in separate layers: it’s something I do with complex illustration, but with simple character design sheets as well. It helps me to know at first glance at what level the things are that I need to add or delete, and it gives me the chance to edit things without touching the other elements of the drawing.
My layers are named accordingly: SKIRT, PETTYCOAT/DETAIL, BUST, and SHIRT.



Our outfit is done!


  1. Adding color

Now that our character is fully dressed, it’s time to ink and color the illustration as we like. Let’s bring our character to life!



This is the brush I always use to ink, the G-pen! It’s super smooth and precise, and it’s perfect for clean line art (my favorite type!)



I had the line art of the body already done, so I took the line art of her body to one layer, and I inked her outfit on another one, leaving the first one on a low opacity. My layers are named accordingly: LINEART, Only Body, Only Dress.



Once the character is completely inked, I go with the shadows: I decide which way the light will hit my character, and draw the shadows on the other side of her body.
Studying real objects, how shadows, and light work on real things, really helps you learn how to properly shade your illustration! As a matter of fact, there are so many things to consider when you shade your character: cast shadows, shades, clothes thickness, etc. Shading theory is really fascinating, and surely super useful for creating credible illustrations.



Once you have decided the direction of your source light (here it’s on our left), I finish my shadows, and then I apply the flat colors of my choice.
The shadow level will be on top of the flat colors that I apply, and you can just set the shadow layer to multiply! This way, it will perfectly blend with all the other colors underneath.


I would discourage you from using a plain gray or low-opacity black for your shadows: use a light color, like a cute lilac, a warm pink, or a light blue. It adds more dynamism and personality to your illustration.



We are almost done!

At this point, I usually add some light reflections on hair, eyes, and skin: I love these kinds of details, it gives a nice “shining” effect to the character’s face and figure!


You can decide to leave this layer in normal mode, but I usually set it to Overlay. This helps to blend these details with all the whole of the drawing, and with the colors below.



The final touches I give to my drawings are line art coloring and lighting. This is something I personally do since I started drawing digitally: I don’t like my line art to be black and static, so I paint them with a darker tone of the color they sit on.

For example, my character’s hair is green, so I used a darker green for the line art on her hair. Same for her skin and clothing.

I really love the effect of this technique, and I can’t live without my colored line art!



As for the lighting, I just add some final overall atmospheric touches with an overlay layer: I usually use two different colors (I personally combine a warm and a cool color) and put them as a gradient over the character. The first one, usually the warm color, from the direction I decided the light is coming, and the cold color from the exact opposite direction.

This passage helps give more complexity to the atmosphere and the character’s colors… and with really little effort!



And now, our illustration is finally complete!



It goes without saying that if you’re reading this tutorial as someone who just started drawing, it might be hard to create complex dresses and realistic frills right away, but these steps will surely help you make them in the future too! Once you get the first steps right, you will slowly figure out your own way to apply them to your drawing style. If it doesn’t turn out as you wanted, don’t give up—keep drawing! No one was born a genius; we all need a lot of practice and the will to learn and improve!

Perseverance—that’s the key to improve as an artist!

I hope you liked this tutorial and had fun following it!
Thank you for reading!

Mortinfamia ~


About the Artist

My name is Martina (AKA MortinfamiART), and I was born in Florence, Italy.

I went to an art high school for five years in my hometown, and I earned a diploma in Visual Arts: after that, I moved to another city, Bologna, to study at the Academy of Fine Arts, and after three years I got a Degree in “Comics and Illustration.” I then returned to Florence and got a diploma in “Comics” after two years in the International School of Comics.

I’ve worked a lot with digital commissions using social networks (Deviantart, Tumblr, and Facebook) since I was in high school. From 2014, I worked for several Italian publishing houses too.

From 2018 to 2020 I published my very own comic trilogy “DEVA – A Tale of Gods” with an Italian publishing house, and from this year I started publishing my webcomic “Kamille” on Webtoon, while I’m planning the next one that will start around the end of this year.




My webtoon:


My social pages:

How to draw Skirt

Sketching African Print Fashion by Stella Jean….

Sketching Stella Jean African Print Fashion Illustrated by Laura Volpintesta, Fashion Illustration Tribe


Here I use the Adobe Photoshop Sketch App on my iPad Mini using the 53Pencil stylus, to illustrate this beautiful ensemble by Stella Jean (LOVE)– of course– my love affair with African Prints is now going on 23 years…. Digital Fashion Sketching made it a lot of fun to do on the go!

This illustration  was my first time really getting comfortable with this app, previously I was spending all of my time on Tayasui Sketches app which I really love love love!  Both apps are free and cost just a few dollars to get some extra bells and whistles that are totally worth it. The only real investment is the iPad and Stylus, which is much more substantial.

One of the reasons I really wanted to try the app is because it has a “palm resist” feature: so that you can rest your hand on the iPad without leaving a mark on the page…  Tayasui Sketches app, my absolute favorite especially for beginning to sketch with an app, doesn’t have this feature.(I totally adore it though).

Ironically, I fell into a really tough spot while working on the face…. somehow with the palm resist activated, I was unable to zoom beyond a certain point… and so  I had very little control over the detail on the face.  It was a few days later that I realized that turning the palm resist off solved the problem.  Zooming happens by spreading two fingers on the page.

I love how it came out.

Whether you care about digital drawing or not, if you love fashion illustration this is still useful… the step by step visuals are so easily aligned with the way I work on paper, just less mess :0).

My online Masterclass courses work non-digitally, I do think it’s the best way to get your CHOPS down!!!! Get started TODAY when you subscribe!  Learn designer process, model drawing, illustration, research, presentation. DEVELOP your design voice and share it!

My illustration process overview:

  • First I sketched the figure with a light pencil tool. I always do this to establish the proportion/ size and shape, a MAP, of the figure.
  • Then I went ahead and used a pen tool (if you look at the PHOTOSHOP app tools, you can see I used black. Look at the blue sliders to see that I used a fine, fully opaque setting,  The sliders give you a range of wide to thin, opaque to sheer, for every kind of pen, brush, or tool.
  • I used the pale yellow to fill in the solid flat base tone for the printed fabric, then used a washy/sheer, wide grey brush to lay down major shadows: under the bust, and here and there on the skirt.
  • The waistband is defined with line, and the pen tool used to show the gathers going into the waistband.

 sketching African Print fashion skirt, Laura Volpintesta, FAshion Illustration, Stella Jean African Print Skirt

  • Here I took a fine, black pen to add the outlines, contours, wrinkles of the shirt. I worked out the neckline opening, and the collar and pocket flaps.
  • I worked out some facial features
  • I  grabbed a thick, super-black Sharpie-like marker tool to show the blackest points from the photo I sketched from, showing the deep shadow INSIDE the collar and some deep wrinkles in the sleeves.

Sketching African Print Fashion Skirt,Laura Volpintesta, Fashion Illustration Tribe

  • I also used black to put some motif from the print into the waistband.
  • I selected a skin tone and laid that in everywhere the skin shows. That’s always one of my first steps. It “brings the woman to life”.

Sketching African Print Fashion skirt, Fashion Illustration Process, Laura Volpintesta

  • Adding a thick black chiseled tip marker background gives a deep background that propels the model forward in our vision! This will balance well with the graphic, complicated pattern.


NOTICE that the black background doesn’t touch right up against the indigo shirt.  I left some white space there so the black and blow wouldn’t blend together visually, and it even feels like light, and keeps the character of the edges I had drawn still there.

  • See the red square where I selected red with my color picker? (I love how quickly you can “mix”–select– colors in this app :0)
  • That color is selected first off for the shoe under her skirt.

Sketching African Print Fashion skirt, Fashion Illustration tutorial, Laura Volpintesta, Fashion Illustration Tribe

  • Skin tone gets darker, more precise (I thought I had matched it, then it didn’t feel right) It was very much a Naples Yellow, which is what I mix my skin tones from gouache on paper, but I never use it without mixing some Van Dyke Brown into it. Then I start to block out some of the colors in the headgear.


  • chose the red color and blocked it in everywhere I saw it.
  • Then I selected the pink and added that on everywhere I saw it.
  • I selected the green color that I saw in the print and added that in everywhere it appeared, then selected a fine, slightly sheer line to show those crackled-wax-batik lines on this “SUPER-WAX” style of print .
  • Also notice the sheerer indigo where the sleeves are rolled-up– looks like the “wrong side” of denim!
  • At his point, using an opaque white marker allowed me to put the buttons onto the denim shirt and just LOOK how that adds “POP” and dimension, …. “sparkle’, even!

Laura Volpintesta, FAshion Illustration, Stella Jean African Print Skirt


  • Remember I said the face was hard because I couldn’t zoom? this is how close I was able to zoom–no closer. Seems like no problem, but the 53Pencil stylus is really LARGE for such a small place on iPad mini. It was sooooooo hard to work without an infinite zoom. I was so mad at the time :0)

Laura Volpintesta, FAshion Illustration Tribe,


  • TO finalize, I softened everything by adding a few deep folds with “sharpie” marker tool, and some deep shadows, over the bright print rendering, which makes it look more flawy and soft falling around the figure. Voila!!Sketching African print fashion skirt, Laura Volpintesta, FAshion Illustration, Stella Jean African Print Skirt
    Finally, I came back and added in the rest of the dark/black pattern over the blocked out colors of the print, so every detail that I saw in that beautiful Dutch Wax/ Ankara/ Wax Print/ African Print/ Pagne/ Afro Chic fabric/ Super Wax.

I was really happy with this! Do you like it? Do you have any questions?

I love to hear from you.  Comment below! SHARE WITH A FRIEND!

I hope you will SUBSCRIBE today to get started on your own study with me when you get your free gift just for subscribers!!!

I hope you will comment below, and share this material if you find it useful and want to help me share my work and my online school!

I hope you will join our Facebook group  Fashion Tribalistas to ask questions, give and get encouragement and inspiration with like minded positive creatives! Just click “join” and I”ll accept you into the group!



Much love, always,

Laura Volpintesta, fashion illustrator, author, speaker, parsons the new school for design faculty, fashion illustration tribe.

fashion illustration tribe, Laura Vlolpintesta, online fashion school

Now Share with YOUR tribe!!



Drawings skirt designs

Sew Liberated

Gypsum is the skirted sister of the Arenite Pants - same ridiculously comfortable waistband and drapey pockets, with more flounce, perfect for twirling through any season. Layer it under or over dresses, wear it with a boxy top or cami, and shorten or lengthen the pattern depending on the season and your style. 

View A has unique, crescent-shaped pockets, sewn with French seams and four flat-felled panels. View A is great for adventurous beginners to advanced sewists, or anyone looking to expand their skills. View B is the perfect introduction to garment sewing (or just a quick sew) with the same shape as View A, but with inseam side pockets and simple front and back panels. 

This pattern is a digital PDF for download. Pattern pieces for Women’s sizes 0-34 are tiled for home printing, or can be printed full-size at a copy shop. (View the sizing chart here and finished measurements here.)

How to draw Skirt

Skirt and Blouse Designs for "Sabrina" | Drawing | Wisconsin Historical Society

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Skirt and Blouse Designs for "Sabrina" | Drawing | Wisconsin Historical Society

Six sketches in pencil, ink, and watercolor for a skirt, blouse, and apron designed by Edith Head for Audrey Hepburn in the film "Sabrina" (Paramount, 1954). Two fabric samples are attached: a navy, red, green and white cotton print and a blue chambray. "Rubber apron" is noted in pencil.

This image is not for sale due to copyright or donor restrictions. You may be able to license it for use from its creator. Please contact us for more information:

Six sketches in pencil, ink, and watercolor for a skirt, blouse, and apron designed by Edith Head for Audrey Hepburn in the film "Sabrina" (Paramount, 1954). Two fabric samples are attached: a navy, red, green and white cotton print and a blue chambray. "Rubber apron" is noted in pencil.
This image is issued by the Wisconsin Center for Film and Theater Research. For further information, contact WCFTR. Use of the image requires written permission from the staff of the Center. It may not be sold or redistributed, copied for resale or distribution as a photoprint, used as agency stock, or used in any other enterprise. The image should not be significantly altered through conventional or electronic means. Images altered beyond standard cropping and resizing require further negotiation with a staff member. The user is responsible for all issues of copyright. Please Credit: Wisconsin Center for Film and Theater Research
Location:Wisconsin Historical Society Archives, 4th Floor, Madison, Wisconsin

To view this image, visit the Archives Research Room on the 4th floor at the Society Headquarters building in Madison, WI. Print out this index page and present it to the librarian. Use the links below to plan your visit to the Society's Archives.

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Now discussing:

Finishings And Trimmings

Box accordion pleat

Movement pleats in persp.

Movement pleats in persp.

Pleats Flat DrawingFunction Accordion Pleats
Flat pleats

A - Background pleat. BC - Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D - Depth of the pleat.

Accordion pleats

Pleats have the function of collecting the fabric around the body in modular geometrical patterns and are also used as trimming on a garment.

They are formed by one line of a fold, one of depth and one of support (A-B-C-D).

There are various types of pleats, and depending on their application, pleasing and variegated effects can be obtained.

They can be set at quite a distance, plissé, pressed or left loose, backstitched or with the inside made up of another fabric.

The best effect for pleats in dressmaking is that created by pleats which follow a straight line, because they follow the texture of the fabric.

A - Background pleat. BC - Strips of fabric which when folded opposite each other create a pleat behind. D - Depth of the pleat.

frills and flounces

Flounces For SketchingFlat Sketch Box Pleats

Double frill, flounce with crest

Mirror flounce with box pleats and waistband, double flounce

Frills and flounces, like pleats, have the function of collecting the fabric in decorative motifs, conferring more femininity and sweetening the cut. They are motifs suitable for a romantic and sophisticated style.

Gathers Draping


Circular flounce


\ \ \ \ y / /1 The circular flounce is much used around the neck, over-

\ \ \ y / I laid with gentle fabrics it becomes very charming and

\ \--^y / Gathers underline the figure in a striking and decorative

N/V. —way. Technically they are small parallel crimps: it is better

^-to use an elasticated fabric to make them.

Draping is the form assumed by a fabric when it is draped upon the body. Due to its pliant nature, it caresses the figure providing a sensual accompaniment to the movements of the person who wears it in a choreography of seductive rhythms.


Open zip, with backstitching, covered, casual for coats, concealed and elegant


Elegant cuffs: Edged with frills, with cuff links, with layered fringes

Stitched cuffs: Rib stitched, stitched with cuff, stitchcd joining the sleeve, stitched turned back

Polo Zip Flat DrawingDrafting Lapeled Collar

Left to right: Basic, neckhole, flat collar

Left to right: Mandarin, classic, classic 1970s shirt collars

Drafting And Cutting Flat CollarsBasic Tailored Shirt Flat Drawing


Left to right: Tailored, turtlencck, polo-neck

Tailored Shirt Flat Drawing

Left to right: 5hawl, V-shaped, high ribbed with buttons

Basic Tailored Shirt Flat DrawingPolo Style With Triangular Insert

Left to right: Polo style with triangular insert, high cross-wound, funnel-shaped

Left to right: Bomber, cross-wound, cardigan

Polo Style With Triangular InsertDrawings Elegant Crosses

Left to right: Lace-up, double cambered, with flood


Three-quarters Profile

Heart Shaped Ribs Drawing

Flat collar

Classic Figure Drawings

Classic collar

Classic Fashion Design Figure DrawingsCollar Drafting

This schema is useful for drawing any kind of collar that you can think of.

By changing the height and width you will also be able to visualize the most unusual collars.


Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Decollete NecklineFashion Figure Shoulder Drawings

Basic, tailored, on the shoulder, V-shaped, asymmetrical

Square, square and singlet, rounded, on the shoulder with oval slit, heart-shaped

American-style, asymmetrical, balcony, square, plunge

Types Hem FinishingsHeart Puff Square Pattern
V-shaped, overlapping, sophisticated, plunge
Sketch Revere Collar FashionTypes Collar Funnel Collar Drawing


Heart Puff Square PatternFlounces For SketchingHeart Puff Square PatternTechnical Drawing PlisseHeart Puff Square PatternHeart Puff Square PatternCardigan Technical Drawing8714 195 Gathers DrapingFashionstylization FiguresTypes Sleeves

PATTERN SCHEMAS types of basic sleeves

Pattern Schemas Types Basic Sleeves

Filled, broader fitting, fitted with crimping

Puff Sleeve Flat Drawing

T-shaped, puff sleeve with cuff, Raglan

Spec Drawing RaglanStraight Skirt Technical Drawing

Hammer, flared Raglan, kimono


Technical diagrams for obtaining pleats and flares.

Basic skirt:

1 - Flared

2 - 1/4 bias-cut circular

3 - 1/3 bias-cut circular

4 - Full bias-cut circular

Circular Skirt Variation

A - Basic miniskirt B - Knee length C-Midi D - Full-length

Technical Drawing Skirt Knife Pleats


Basic Skirts With Yoke Gathers And Flare

Close-fitting, straight, wrapover, flared, wrapover with yolk and pleats

Half bias-cut circular, puff, puff with fitted hem, plisse pleats

Sketch Skirt With Tiered Flounces

Tiered frills, tiered flounces, asymmetrical with flounces, straight with large pleat and accordion pleat

Half bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with yolk, full bias-cut circular with waist crimping, flared with inserts

Technical Drawing Type Trouse

Simple and elegant poses underline the cut and the details of the pattern.


Types TrousersTypes Hem Finishings

Tlicks asid pleat, jodhpurs, pantaloons

Hipsters, bell-bottom, Oriental

Drawing Dummy PosesTucks And PleatsGarments That Use Pleats TucksTechnical Drawing Skirts


Symbol Dressmaker

Above is seen a dressmaker's dummy from the four basic perspectives.

To mould the bodice or the costume around the body it is necessary to use tucks which reduce the fabric where it is at its roomiest and where the body is rounded, underlining the shape.

The First figure shows the basic bodice with the application of rotated tucks, both on the upper body and the pelvis. To bring an item of clothing closer to the body, more tucks which slope down from the top as far as the flank and from the shoulder-blade to the flank can be used. The tucks can be visible as in the basic version, inserted in the lengths of material or absorbed in the looseness of the design to confer more softness and linearity on the item of clothing.


Tucks Clothing


Pelvis Simplified DrawingRenaissance Shirt Template
I.rye shirt, Mandarin, romantic
Sketching For Tucks


Drawing Tucks Garments

Models wearing the designs on previous pages. The poses are simple and suitable for the interpretation of the pattern

Creases have been kept to a minimum and the outlines of the pattern are emphasized in the drawing.

Romantic Drawing Poses


Drawing Basic Dresses


Coat Technical Drawing
Bomber Jacket Technical SketchSpec Drawings Duffle CoatRaincoats Patterns DrawingsFinishings And Trimming

Bomber, denim backstitched

Denim Sketch

denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.



Bomber, denim backstitched

Casual with zips

The model assumes a decisive and youthful pose like the fashion that she is modelling. The arms spread wide emphasize the fitted sleeves and [he fullness of the denim casual jacket. The simple and neat drawing style emphasizes the cut and the backstitches.


Double Breasted Coat Technical DrawingFigure Drawing Model

Casual with zipt

Finishings And Trimming

The model assumes i and youthful pose like that she is modelling. Ti spread wide emphasize L sleeves and the fullness ot

The model on the opposite page is moving to stress the fullness of the cape, which is also accentuated by the raised arm.


Fitted Jacket Drawing

Double-breasted with lapels Flared with partial doubling

Close-fitting jackets with variations in cuts, finishing and trim mings.

Lapel Jacket Technical Sketch

Casual lighL coats and jackets sharing the same basic form, but varied in cuts and finishing and trimmings.

Plain coat with padded shoulders, coat with zip and hood, coat with casing

Padde DrawingCasual Figure DrawingFlat Drawings Bomber Jacket

Padded bomber jacket, quilted coat, quilted bomber jacket

7/Sths length coat, coat with double fastening and variation in pockets, coat with zip and double pockets and inside pocket

FOOTWEAR various styles and fashions

Collar Types

It is important to personalize a fashion plate with accessories which are suitable to identify a style or to play down an image that is too serious.

In these pages you will find many examples of footwear of various types which are suitable for the most varied fashions. The footwear is shown from a variety of perspectives.

I ll

Fashion plates are the primary means of visualising ideas and concepts in costume and fashion design. To give an accurate impression of what is in a designer's mind it is vital to have complete mastery of the rules of figure drawing. Here, realism and anatomical precision are the chief values, whereas for costume and fashion, stylization and exaggeration are ways of adding individuality and verve to a plate, and of focusing attention on specific elements.


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