Turkish knitting stitch

Turkish knitting stitch DEFAULT
[Turkish stitch sample, showing increase and decrease]
Sample shows an increase (above) and a decrease (below) in the Turkish stitch.

The Turkish Stitch—and its purled sister, the Purse Stitch—produce a fabric that is very stretchy, both horizontally and vertically. Fast and easy to knit on large needles, this is a perfect stitch for making bags and tubes of all sorts. Shaping instructions are included since they will be needed for things like mesh stockings. I have used this stitch pattern to make a Bath Puff.

Materials

Needles: double pointed needles or a circular needle in a size very large relative to the size of the chosen yarn. (Sample in photo is a fingering-weight acrylic knitted on a US size 10.5 (6.5mm) needle.)
Yarn: Suitable to the project; can be quite fine in gauge. For a shopping bag, a strong yarn such as linen, hemp, or nylon cord. For a lingerie bag, a machine-washable synthetic.

Tubular Turkish Stitch Pattern

Cast on an odd number of stitches--you don't have to count; the number can be adjusted at the end of the first round. Join knitting into a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches around the needle. Place a ring marker at the beginning of the round.

Rnd 1-- *yo, k2tog* to the last stitch; yo, k1, yo.
Rnd 2-- *k2tog, yo* to last 3 sts; k3tog.

If you cast on an even number of stitches, when you come to the end of Rnd 1 you will have 2 stitches remaining instead of one. Instead of (yo, k1, yo) work these as (yo, k2tog, yo). You now have an odd number of stitches and can proceed with the pattern as written.

Double Decrease in Turkish Stitch

It takes two rounds to complete a decrease. This can be done at any ridge, but instructions are written for the last ridge on the round, as shown in photo.

on Rnd 1--end with just knitting the last stitch (omit the 2 yo's)
on Rnd 2--end by slipping the last 3 sts as if to knit, remove marker, k2tog, pass the 3 slipped stitches over, replace marker.

Double Increase in Turkish stitch

on Rnd 2--end round by k3tog, leave the three sts on the left needle, yo, k the same 3 sts tog, place a ring marker on right needle, yo, k the 3 sts tog again and slide them off left needle. Remove the original ring marker; the round will now begin at the new one.
on Rnd 1--work as usual.

Binding Off

Bind off loosely by substituting a chain stitch for the yo's in the mesh pattern, like this--
k2tog, *insert left needle tip in the front of the stitch on the right needle and knit another stitch into this stitch (yes, you're crocheting with your needle tip), k2tog, pass the chain stitch over the new stitch*. Repeat between *s to end of work and fasten off.

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​Turkish Braid Knit Stitch

The quantity of sts is multipled 18 sts + 2 selvedge sts.

Knit the pattern from 1st to 12th rows in height once, then only from 3rd to 12th rows to the needed height.

1st row: * 1 purl, 3 knit sts, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 8 knit sts, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 3 knit sts, 1 purl*.

2nd row and all the even rows: knit due to the pattern, transfer the st with 3 yarn over to the right-hand needle, yarn is in front of work, drop the yarn overs;

3rd row: * 1 purl, 2 knit sts, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, knit the drawn st with next 4 knit sts with left decline: slip long st in front of work, 4 knit sts, slipped st - as knit st, drawn st with next 4 knit sts with right decline: slip 4 sts and leave them behind work, slipped st - as knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 2 knit sts, 1 purl*;

5th row: * 1 purl, 1 knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, knit the drawn st with next 4 knit sts with left decline: slip long st in front of work, 4 knit sts, slipped st - as knit st, 2 knit sts, drawn st with next 4 knit sts with right decline: slip 4 sts and leave them behind work, slipped st - as knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 1 knit st, 1 purl*;

7th row: * 1 purl, 1 knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, knit the drawn st with next 4 knit sts with left decline: slip long st in front of work, 4 knit sts, slipped st - as knit st, 4 knit sts, drawn st with next 4 knit sts with right decline: slip 4 sts and leave them behind work, slipped st - as knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 1 knit st, 1 purl*;

9th row: * 1 purl, 1 knit st, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, knit the drawn st with next 4 knit sts with left decline: slip long st in front of work, 4 knit sts, slipped st - as knit st, 6 knit sts, drawn st with next 4 knit sts with right decline: slip 4 sts and leave them behind work, slipped st - as knit st, 1 purl*;

11th row: * 1 purl, 3 knit sts, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, braid on 8 sts right cross: slip 4 sts and leave them behind work, 4 knit sts, slippes sts - as knit sts, 1 knit st with 3 yarn overs, 3 knit sts, 1 purl*.

Sours: https://www.craftorator.com/1476-turkish-braid-knit-stitch.html
  1. Black legion sword
  2. Camping classroom door
  3. Yamaha scooter battery
  4. Lid driven cavity flow
  5. One piece smoker

Day 25 : Turkish Knit Stitch : #100daysofknitstitches


Video:

Music by Ben Sound


Materials:

Yarn Weight: Super Bulky
Yardage: 35-45 yards {32 – 41 meters}
Suggested Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick
Needle Size: US 11 {8mm} Knitting Needles
{Learn About Yarn Substitutes.}

100 Days of Knit Stitches Bundle Promotional Image


Pattern:

CO in multiples of 2
Reversible knit stitch

All rows: *YO, SKP*


Abbreviations:

*– * – repeat between *
CO – cast-on {long-tail cast-on method}
SKP – slip 1 stitch purl-wise, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
YO – yarn over


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Day 25 : Turkish Knit Stitch : #100daysofknitstitches
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Sours: https://www.bromefields.com/day-25-turkish-knit-stitch-100daysofknitstitches/
Turkish stitch: a Knittycat's Knits tutorial

The last post defined the thing knitters do to make holes in fabric on purpose (“yarn over”) rather than by accident (“oopsie”). Via  words and animated gifs, it showed how to make them between different types of stitches as well as with yarn held in the left hand and yarn in the right hand. Now, those are my left and right hands, and the way you hold yarn and needles may not look exactly the same. As long as whatever you do gets the yarn from where is after making the first stitch on the right needle, over the right needle to make the yarn over, and to where it needs to be to make the next stitch!

A yarn over adds a stitch to your total stitch count. Much like wine goes with cheese, a yarn over goes with a decrease, and keeps the stitch count constant. Which decrease and its placement, before or after the yarn over, determines the overall look in the fabric.

In this post and the ones that follow we’re going to look at several easy-to-remember stitch patterns containing little else but pairs of yarn overs and decreases. All have a mesh-like appearance, and can be used as overall fabric, in panels, and as horizontal and vertical insertions in other fabrics. As a class they are sometimes referred to as faggoting.

Yarn Over Plus Knit Two Together

The first stitch pattern we are going to look at pairs the yarn over with a knit two together (k2tog) decrease. It’s known as Turkish Stitch. The yarn over is worked first and the k2tog follows. As a right-slanting decrease which puts the left stitch of the pair on top of the right, the decrease points toward the yarn over. If the pair were isolated in a ground of stockinette stitch, the stitch in the “hole” column disappears behind the decrease column and is a very unobtrusive pairing.

There is only one row, comprised of our yarn over/decrease pair repeated between a knit selvage stitch at each side.

Turkish Stitch (mult of 2 sts +2)

All rows k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Cast on 20 or so stitches, and work a couple of rows in stockinette stitch  to give yourself a nice base. Then work the first row as written above. Regardless of which hand you hold the yarn in, it can be helpful to pull the fabric below the first two stitches on the left needle down; it can make it easier to insert the needles into the two stitches. When you get to the last few stitches, remember to end “k2tog, k1!” It’s all too easy to continue the rhythm of yo between knits, and add an extra yo before the selvage stitch. And that will completely mess up what follows!

 

After the first row, when you turn the work you’ll see the stitches on the left needle are, from right to left: a purled selvage, a right-slanting purled decrease stitch, and then the yarn over strand. After working the selvage stitch, you begin the “yo, k2tog” repeat again. Notice what this means: when you work the k2tog, you insert the right needle into/under the yarn over first, continuing into the k2tog stitch. The yarn over ends up on top. Continue across the row, again remembering to end with k2tog, k1.

The fabric produced by working successive yarn over / k2tog pairs  in this way is wonderfully elastic. At rest the dominant feature of the fabric is its diagonal lines, created by yarn over strands  and k2togs of the front that slant in the same direction. Pull it open even slightly, and the yarn over strands from the back show through. You see a zig-zag lattice of yarn strands, as well as zig-zag columns of decreases.

Turkish Stitch, unstretched and stretched

Project

What better way to take advantage of Turkish Stitch fabric’s stretchy nature than to use it in one of my favorite shawlette shapes?! I’ve also used a tape yarn with some stretch, an oldie but a goodie from Colinette.

You’ll use a slipped-stitch selvage instead of the k1s at each side as above. This gives a nice edge, and it makes it a bit simpler to seam: 1 slipped edge stitch to 1 stitch at bottom or top (depending on which edge you fold!).

Finished measurements 12 x 40 inches [30.5 x 101.5 cm]

Collinette Tagliatielli (90% wool, 10% nylon; 175 yds/3.5 oz [160 m/100 g]): 1 skein
US 15 [10.0 mm] needles or size to get gauge
Tapestry needle

Gauge 10 sts = 4 inches [10 cm] in Turkish Stitch, slightly stretched

LOOSELY cast on 30 stitches; knit 1 row.

All rows slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Work as above until there is approximately 9 feet [ 2.75 m] of yarn left. Knit 1 row; bind off loosely. Fold one end to one side as shown in this post and seam.


Back in the day I was obsessed with faggoting stitches, as well as capelettes. And Colinette yarns. My Delores Cape pattern uses all three, naturally. Read more here or on my Ravelry pattern store.

Turkish stitch

Turkish stitch with Colette Zanzibar and Isis.

Delores Cape, Gauguin color way
Delores Cape, mixed color way

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Sours: https://bethwhitesidedesign.com/2018/05/06/yarn-over-season-turkish-stitch/

Knitting stitch turkish

What is a mock turkish stitch?

lissuin_losse#1

i am new to knitting and wanted to do a shawl… the “cuzco peruvian wrap” (it looks really pretty :-)) but i don’t know what a mock turkish stitch is and alas! google is no help…

if anyone can help me i’d be much obliged

thank you!

rebecca#2

I looked around in some of my stitch reference at home & can’t find it, either…I’m sorry!

Ingrid#3

Usually when a pattern gives a name to a stitch, they also tell how to do it. Is this a pattern that is on line so we can see it, or a picture of the finished product?

lissuin_losse#4

it’s an online one, and i guess it just assumes that you know the stitch?

the site is:
http://secure.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=46024

it’s only a picture tho

rebecca#5

Ahhhh yes, here it is:
Mock Turkish Stitch:(Multiple of 2 + selvedge)
All rows: Knit 1, yarn forward to make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Now, I will leave any additional explaining to Our Ingrid bc she can put knitting into the simplest of terms :wink:

lissuin_losse#6

thank you soooo much!!! :happydance:

lissuin_losse#7

um… (dumb question but…) what’s yarn forward? is that like to knit stitch?

lissuin_losse#8

ok… nevermind… please disregard the last question… :blush:

Ingrid#9

When you knit, your yarn is in back, right? For a yarn forward, you’ll bring your yarn forward as if you are going to purl. When you do the next stitch, in this case k2tog, your yarn will wrap around your needle and give you the eyelet and an increase at the same time. The extra stitch is offset by the k2tog, so you’ll come out even in the end.

rebecca#10

:wink: Told ya :D…best explainer ever :heart:…or is it direction giver?!

Ingrid#11

rebecca:

:wink: Told ya :D…best explainer ever :heart:

I tried extra hard. :roflhard:

lissuin_losse#12

:slight_smile: i guess you guys knit a lot huh?

Ingrid#13

Oh yeah, you could say that! :wink:

lissuin_losse#14

well, much thanks to ingrid and rebecca! the fog is starting to clear :smiley:

Ingrid#15

:thumbsup:

Merry_Stitcher#16

I’m a little late to the game, but I’ve made this wrap. As you’ve discovered, the stitch – which I’ve yet to see anywhere else - is, thankfully, described in the pattern.

The wrap is wonderful, and very easy to make, once you get going. (I actually just finished a scarf that I made from this stitch. It worked out well.)

The lesson I learned while making it was the value of a “lifeline”. With all of those yarnovers, I found it’s very difficult to figure out how to put your needle back in if you need to frog back to a mistake.

I learned about lifelines here, and I suggest you put one in your work from time to time. It’s the knitting equivalent of clicking on “save”.

Have fun!
Mary

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Sours: https://forum.knittinghelp.com/t/what-is-a-mock-turkish-stitch/5956
How to Knit the Left Slanting Turkish Rib Stitch - Knitting Stitch Pattern - English Style

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